Birzebbuga is a maritime village situated near the south-east coast of Malta. It is flanked by the villages of Marsaxlokk, Zejtun, Ghaxaq, Gudja, Safi and Zurrieq. Its name is derived from two Maltese words, ‘Bir’ meaning ‘a well’ and ‘Zebbuga’ meaning ‘an olive’, which may indicate that Birzebbuga was known as the ‘well of olives’. In fact, this part of the island was once famous for the cultivation of olives for the production of olive oil. It’s motto in Maltese reads ‘paci u sahha lil kulhadd’ which means ‘peace and prosperity for everyone’. Today, Birzebbuga is home to around 8,000 Maltese citizens. It is also highly sought after by many Maltese urban-dwellers as a first choice for their summer residence. The village has a fascinatingly rich history which dates back to pre-historic times, as can be confirmed by the number of historical sites in and around this village. Many of these sites are open to the public.
‘Ghar Dalam’ is a pre-historic cave considered to be Malta’s oldest historical site. This cave is located on one side of the valley of Wied Dalam. Several fossils and remains of extinct animals such as pigmy elephants, as well as deer, hippos, and many others were found in this very cave, a fact that would seem to support the hypothesis that the Maltese islands were once geographically linked to the rest of Europe. It was at first thought, by its discoverers, that all these remains must have been deposited in this cave during the so called ‘Ice Age’, when the valley was active. In 1929 a museum was constructed above the same cave, housing a fascinating collection of several animal remains including bones, teeth and horns all of which were discovered in the same cave, together with data covering the extensive history of the cave and its explorers.
The remains of the temple of ‘Borg in-Nadur’, dating back to 1500 before the Christian era, lie on the opposite side of the same valley, a few metres away from the Ghar Dalam cave. These remains were first explored in 1922, when several clay vases and other neolithic tools were found. It is thought that this temple was built during the Neolithic Age, and was later used as a place of worship during the Copper Age. Not far from this temple, there exist the remains of a very old bastion, which is locally known as ‘is-Sur ta’ Borg in Nadur’. This type of bastion, which is quite unique, is technically known as ‘Cyclopean’. It dates back to the year 1450 Before the Christian era, and is built in the shape of a semi-circular wall. It was discovered during the 1881 excavations, but in 1959 further extensive excavations, under the direction of Professor Tramp, revealed several more remains. A short distance down the hill, along the coast of St. George’s Bay one can still see several cart ruts which reach and go down to the sea.
On the other side of the same valley, some four to five hundred yards north-west of the ruins of Borg in-Nadur, facing the ‘Ghar Dalam’ cave, one may find the remains of a large Roman country house, more commonly known as the Roman Villa, in a place which is better known as ‘Ta’ Kaccarura’. The site was first excavated in 1881, but the excavations were completed in May 1915, under the supervision of Professor Thomas Ashby, assisted by Sir Temi Zammit and his colleagues. The house contained a peristilium surrounded by 16 columns and underneath there is a well. There is also a large cistern which is roofed with slabs of rock supported by beams, and there are 12 huge columns each constructed with large blocks of stone. In September 1893 a boundary wall was built around the cistern to help preserve it. On this same site there are the remains of some tombs dating back to the Phoenician era. Unfortunately during the Second World War this historical site was extensively damaged after being directly hit by a bomb.
In the same area known as ‘Ta’ Kaccatura’ but this time on the side of the valley of ‘Wied Saptan’, there are the remains of a large country house, known as ‘Casa Ippolito’, built in 1664 by the Sicilian Baron Ippolito Novantieri who was married to a Maltese lady. This house and its surroundings have a very fascinating history, no doubt as a result of various myths and legends which have been handed down from one generation to another over the centuries. The building of this house is an exceptional model of typical 17th century Maltese architecture.
In September 1530, the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, later better known as the ‘Knights of Malta’, sailed into the harbour of Vittoriosa. Throughout their long stay in Malta, especially after the Great Siege of 1565 against the Turks, the Knights built various fortifications around the entire island. In Birzebbuga, due to its strategic importance, several fortifications were built, the main one being the ‘Ferretti Battery’ which was built by Francesco Maria Ferretti between 1715 and 1716 in a place known as ‘Qajjenza’. Together with ‘Forti San Luciano’ built by the Grandmaster Wignacourt at the beginning of the 17th century, it was designed to safeguard the coast from the Turkish threat. ‘Pinto Battery’, built at the beginning of the 18th century in a place known as ‘tan-Naghag’, is another battery situated in Birzebbuga, mid-way between the two main bays, St. Georges Bay and Pretty Bay. Yet another battery, the ‘Benghajsa Battery’, was built in 1715 by the Knights in a place known as Kalafrana, in order to protect what once was the third bay of Birzebbuga. Thus, by 1761, the Knights had set up a chain of fortifications, including the ‘Kalafrana Battery’ and a series of bastions and Redoubts, along the coast from Kalafrana Bay to Pretty Bay. Almost all of these fortifications have been unfortunately lost to make way for the Freeport Terminals construction project. Together with all these fortifications, one may also mention the ‘Wied Znuber Tower’ built on the side of this valley in the 16th century, a stop wall built in the same valley in 1654, and the ‘De Redin Tower’ built in 1659 in Benghajsa.
When Malta became a British colony, many other fortifications were built, the main one being the fort on the cliff edges of Benghajsa. There was also the well-known Torpedo Depot in Kalafrana Bay, in place of which today stand the Freeport Terminals. This Torpedo Depot served as a naval and sea-plane base during the Second World War. The British-built Hal Far airfield, known as the HMS Falcon, was extensively used both during the Second World War and later. One may also mention the small fortified structures constructed as a part of British anti-invasion preparations, popularly known as pillboxes by reference to their shape, situated along the whole territory of this village.
Birzebbuga can boast of many beautiful buildings, former stately homes of the nobility and other important personalities. One may also find a series of chapels, built by these noble families for private worship. The St George’s Chapel, situated in the middle of the St. George’s Bay, is the oldest one, having been already well-established by 1575. This chapel was later fortified by a Redoubt containing a small cemetery. In the same bay there are two other chapels, the first one dedicated to ‘Our Lady Help of Christians’ built in 1833, and the second one built in 1871, dedicated to St. Joseph. Another chapel dedicated to the Holy Family was built in 1864, and the Immaculate Conception Chapel situated in the lovely pastoral landscape of Benghajsa was built in 1823. There used to be two other chapels, alas no longer in existence, one in Hal Far dedicated to St. Angelo, built in 1702 and destroyed during the Second World War, and the Stella Maris Chapel in Kalafrana Bay, demolished during the construction of the Freeport project. The Addolorata church, which was built in the beginning of the 20th century by Monsignor Spiridone Penza, while on his summer residence in Birzebbuga, during which time he worked hard among the poor 650-odd villagers. In 1913 this church was declared an independent parish church by the bishop, Monsignor Pietro Pace. A few years later, when the village population began to swell, another church was built, according to the plans of the architect Godwin Galizia. The foundation stone of this beautiful Romanesque church, dedicated to St. Peter, was laid solemnly by Bishop Mauro Caruana on the 29th August 1926. The building was completed in 1951, after 25 years of hard work, interrupted during the four years of World War II. It contains several works of art, mainly the main marble altar manufactured in Pietrasanta in Italy in 1955, and the titular statue of St. Peter carved in wood in 1959 by the Italian sculptor Ferdinano Stuflesser. During the first week of August, the parish of Birzebbuga celebrates the feast dedicated to its patron saint. The Parish church is highly decorated for this occasion. Colourful street-decorations and a lavish fireworks display set the mood for a traditional ‘Festa’ atmosphere. This feast is traditionally organized with the participation of the two local musical bands, ‘St. Peter’s Band’ and the ‘Birzebbuga Band’. The Festa culminates in the procession with the statue of St Peter along the main streets of the village, usually teeming with locals and foreigners visiting Birzebbuga for this annual religious and traditional event.
Apart from its historical and cultural aspect, Birzebbuga is well known for its striking countryside. This village is surrounded by six beautiful valleys, Wied Dalam, Wied Saptan, Wied Znuber, Wied il-Mixta, Wied il-Buni and finally Wied ix-Xoqqa in Kalafrana, just a few metres away from the site of the historical encounter, during a severe storm, between American President George Bush and U.S.S.R. President Mikhail Gorbachov, marking the end of the Cold War between the two Super-Powers. This took place on the 23rd November 1989.
This is but a brief overview of a rural village oozing charm, history and tradition. Although parts of the village have become industrialised, Birzebbuga still offers the tranquillity and peaceful lifestyle so many of us dream of. Its friendly inhabitants are warm and welcoming, inviting everyone to join them during the village activities, especially in summer, when several religious and cultural festivals together with other sports activities are held. Therefore it’s a must for every tourist to visit this small picturesque village with a great history and an even greater heart.
Nirringrazzja lill-Ghaqda Storja u Kultura Birzebbuga ghall-kitba u ghar-ritratti tal-Bajja s-Sabiha u l-Bajja ta' San Gorg
kif ukoll Mario Fenech ghar-ritratt ta' Borg in-Nadur
